Ik ben dol op de kleding, tassen en schoenen van de Belgische modeontwerper Martin Margiela, maar ik hou mijn hart vast als reus L'Oreal een parfum voor hem gaat ontwerpen. Komt daar wel iets echt unieks uit? Ik vind het riskant, zeker omdat Margiela nog altijd een behoorlijk conceptueel ontwerper is. Maar volgens L'Oreal wordt het absoluut iets unieks…..
Geplakt en geknipt van WWD.com:
Eau D'Invisible Man: L'Oreal Signs License To Do Margiela Scent
By Jennifer Weil
PARIS – Given Martin Margiela's conceptual bent, one could imagine him putting out a perfume without any scent – or even an empty bottle.
But now L'Oréal has become the elusive Belgian designer's long-term beauty license holder and only time will tell.
News of Margiela's deal with L'Oréal confirms a report in WWD on Feb. 27. Margiela's first scent is probably due in the fall of 2009.
And it promises to be something highly creative and unusual, according to the French beauty giant. "He has a very special story, an approach that's unique," said L'Oréal's Patricia Turck Paquelier, international brand president, prestige and collections international, in an exclusive interview. "We are prepared to work together for something surprising."
Sitting on overstuffed chairs draped in white cloth at Margiela's headquarters here were Turck Paquelier along with Giovanni Pungetti, chief executive officer of Maison Martin Margiela, and Ladan Lari, international managing director of Maison Martin Margiela Fragrances.
In his customary, Greta Garbo-like fashion, Margiela was nowhere to be seen. (Although, who knows, he could have been any one of the people scurrying by in flapping white lab coats.)
Margiela is the antithesis of a designer living to grab the limelight, and in this hyped world of labels, his brand has practically no logo (save for four stitches on the back of his clothes). Yet his neoclassic, avant-garde approach to fashion has captured an international following among people "searching for something different, which is an alternative to ostentatious luxury," said Turck Paquelier.
"There's definite desire from retailers and clients for new things," Turck Paquelier continued. "The designer brands play a very important role in this dynamic market.
"In this context, we always try to scout out new trends, try to identify what is most timeless, promising and creative," she continued. "There are so many things to look at, so we have to be extremely demanding in the selection process. It was something totally obvious; the Maison Martin Margiela emerged as the unique candidate."
Among fashion's true iconoclasts, Margiela appeared on the fashion scene as one of the original members of the famed Antwerp Six, whose members included Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, and who brought deconstruction into the fashion vocabulary.
Founding his namesake house in 1988, Margiela has remained the maverick of the group, pushing fashion ideas to the extreme and refusing to be photographed or interviewed at a time when fashion coverage has never been more intensive. He has a penchant for cloven footwear, and almost all surfaces of his stores and headquarters are painted white – up to and including the hangers and catsup bottles in the cafeteria.
During the most recent Paris Fashion Week, his big idea was funnel and cowl necks – of extreme proportions.
Yet Margiela has hardly shunned the mainstream of fashion. From 1998 until 2003, he designed women's ready-to-wear at Hermès. And in 2002, he surprised the industry by selling a majority stake of his company to Renzo Rosso, founder of denim and streetwear giant Diesel. (Diesel's beauty license is also held by L'Oréal, which last year launched the Fuel for Life fragrance duo under that banner.)
Since Rosso's takeover, the Margiela business has been on a growth track, expanding into the lucrative and fast-growing accessories business and adding to its network of stores, with locations in Paris, Milan and Beverly Hills, Calif. In fact, it has been so successful that late last year volume was estimated at 55 million euros, or $77.5 million
Margiela recently added sunglasses to his oeuvre, including a style that resembles an identity-canceling black bar placed over the eyes. And sources said a fine jewelry line is also planned, possibly with Italy's Damiani.
In September, the MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp will unveil a Margiela retrospective exhibition.
It's a bit early to discuss the nuts and bolts of the first fragrance project with Margiela – for instance, whether it will be backed by any advertising, something shunned by the Belgian pack.
"The DNA of Martin Margiela is intimate and personal. We have to be careful not to use launch tools opposite to this," said Turck Paquelier. But it is clear that fragrance will be introduced in a selective number of prestige doors.
Along with Margiela, teams from L'Oréal and his fashion house are working together on the fragrance project, which is overseen by Lari, who, in turn, reports to Turck Paquelier.
"We've formed a creative hub," said Lari. "It's very much about teamwork."
"Martin Margiela loves fragrance," continued Pungetti, adding that as a lifestyle brand, the fashion house was missing a fragrance. "We had other priorities until now, other projects, but now is the right moment to approach this category."
Outside of fragrance, there could be other Margiela beauty products on the horizon.
"Fine fragrance is the priority, but we're absolutely open to new possibilities, but not in a classical way," said Turck Paquelier, adding that in working on Maison Martin Margiela project, "We are challenged to do something never done before."
"We don't like to do things the standard way, but we like to do very standard things in a Martin Margiela way," said Pungetti, adding, "This project doesn't change his way of being, as a designer."
- With contributions from Miles Socha and Ellen Groves
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Wow Check out this rumor…..
ABC will announce Monday that TLC reality star Kate Gosselin will be one of the hoofers on the next round of “Dancing With the Stars,” according to a source with knowledge of the situation.
At press time, the deal was virtually done for the now-divorced mother of eight to become one of the celebrities vying for the cheesetastic Mirrored Disco Ball.
This will be the fulfillment of a dream for Gosselin who, on Jay Leno’s ill-fated prime-time show, said she’d like to be on “Stars” because she can’t dance. “I want to laugh at myself,” Gosselin told Leno. “I so cannot dance.”
Will you Watch?
Hey everyone what do you think of this! Pretty crazy stuff! I don’t think anyone is going to stop young people from partying but what do my fellow moms think?
At Virginia Tech, where tailgating and raucous apartment complex parties are time-honored rituals, university officials are turning increasingly to Mom and Dad to curb problem underage drinking.
This semester, the school in Blacksburg, Va., began notifying parents when their under-21 students are found guilty of even minor alcohol violations such as getting caught with a beer in a dorm room.
Although it’s common for colleges to alert parents of major alcohol offenses — or when a student faces suspension — Virginia Tech is part of a small but growing number sending letters home on minor ones.
The debate about how much to involve parents in such cases is a balancing act for colleges and universities. Officials want to hold young adults accountable as they venture out on their own, are well aware that drinking is part of the college experience, and also recognize potential allies in a generation of hands-on parents who can help when things go too far.
“I think it helps students open up to parents,” said Steven Clarke, director of Virginia Tech’s College Alcohol Abuse Prevention Center. “And parents can be helpful in setting boundaries students might need.”
The beefed-up parental notification policy is part of a broader strategy that includes alcohol-education classes and a “party positive” program that encourages responsible drinking.
The student reaction to the policy change, not surprisingly, has been less than enthusiastic.
“If you have one beer in the dorm and you get caught, I don’t feel like parents should be notified,” said Erik Pryslak, a junior engineering major. “Now that we’re all in college, we’re all adults. It’s kind of your responsibility to take care of yourself. If you want to make your parents aware you’re about to be kicked out of school, then it’s on you.”
Studies show that students who say their parents would disapprove of them drinking are less likely to drink heavily once they get to college, said Toben Nelson, an assistant professor at the University of Minnesota School of Public Health who has studied campus drinking.
At Virginia Tech, the school has operated on a “three strikes” system for years: Students get one strike for a minor alcohol violation and two for a major one — things like getting a DUI or vomiting all over a residence hall bathroom. Three strikes and a student is suspended for at least one semester.
After a spate of alcohol-related deaths on college campuses, Congress in the late 1990s changed student privacy laws to lower barriers to parental notification in cases involving students under 21.
Schools took a wide array of approaches in response. Virginia Tech started notifying parents of under-21 students after major alcohol offenses or when a student had accumulated two strikes with two minor ones.
But some parents complained that because they had not been notified of minor offenses, they were in the dark until a student was suddenly facing suspension, said Edward Spencer, Virginia Tech’s vice president for student affairs. Hence the change this semester — a move Spencer says also reflects changing times.
Parents of Generation X students were often reluctant to get involved when the school invoked an emergency clause in privacy laws and alerted them of alcohol problems, he said.
“The response would be, ‘You know, I’m leaving on a cruise. I’m going to a class reunion.’”
But today, parents of millennials tend to be tethered by cell phone to children who studies show often idolize their parents — so it makes sense to go a step further in parental involvement, he said.
“We’d like to strike a happy medium,” Spencer said. “We’re grateful for the positive involvement of parents. We find it difficult when their involvement is over-involvement.”
Research has found more than 40 percent of college students reported at least one symptom of alcohol abuse or dependance. One recent study estimated that more than 500,000 full-time students at four-year colleges suffer injuries each year related to drinking, and about 1,700 die in such accidents.
“When it comes to safety, there really is a fine line,” said Max DiSesa, a sophomore from Durham, N.H. “I completely understand Virginia Tech and they want to keep people safe. But I think this might be overall detrimental to the growth of students.”
Some universities already have found success alerting parents earlier. The University at Albany, State University of New York has seen a decline in repeat offenders since it began notifying parents of under-21 students of minor alcohol violations four years ago, said Laurie Garafola, director of residential life.
“I don’t send many second letters out to parents,” she said.
At the University of North Carolina Wilmington, the philosophy is different. The school — which like many others stresses shared responsibility to parents and students during summer orientation — does not notify parents of minor offenses. Parents, however, are notified before any under-21 student is suspended.
“Part of students coming to college is to learn how to be a responsible adult — and hopefully learn from their mistakes,” said Patricia Leonard, vice chancellor for student affairs.
Copyright © 2010 The Associated Press. All rights reserved.